Question 1

How do I verify a card is really graded?

Accepted Answer

Every listing shows its certification number. Enter it on the grader's own lookup page — PSA or CGC — and compare the card, set and grade against what we published. The graders' databases are public and free; you do not need an account and you do not need to have bought from us.

If anything differs, we refund in full and cover return shipping. You do not need to take our word for it, which is the point.

Open this answer on its own page →

Question 2

What exactly do I own when I tokenize a card?

Accepted Answer

You own the card. The token is a transferable claim on one specific slab, matched one to one with its certification number, and it exists so the card can change hands without anyone shipping it, opening it, or risking it in the post. The card itself does not move. It stays sealed in the vault, insured, while the token travels. When you want the physical card, you redeem the token, the token is burned, and the card ships to you. Tokenization is not live yet. The page describes exactly how it will work and what it will cost, and it will not accept a card until the terms are final.

Question 3

How is the market comparable calculated?

Accepted Answer

It is the recent sold price for the same card at the same grade — completed sales, not asking prices, and that distinction matters more than anything else on this page. Anyone can list a card at any number; only a sale proves what it is worth. It comes from one of three places, and the listing says which: Card Ladder, which aggregates public sold listings; the median of the last three completed sales of that exact card at that exact grade, published so you can check it yourself; or a manual appraisal when no usable sale exists. We take the median rather than the average, because one odd sale moves an average a long way and a median hardly at all. Auctions and buy-it-now sales both count. An auction with real bidding is the truest price a card has, so excluding them would throw away most of the evidence on anything expensive. We record what the buyer actually paid — buyer’s premium included, shipping and tax excluded — and we ignore any sale where the price is hidden, where nobody bid against the opening, or where a lot was broken up into per-card guesses. Each comparable shows the date it is drawn from. If we do not have a recent sale for that card at that grade, the listing shows no comparable at all. We would rather publish nothing than present a number from four months ago as if it were today. The comparable is context, not a promise. Sometimes our price sits above it — for a scarce grade, or a card we paid up for — and you can see that plainly, which is the intended behaviour.

Question 4

What happens at month 12 of a lease?

Accepted Answer

Twelve payments settle the price in full, so at month 12 the piece is simply yours — there is no balloon payment waiting at the end and no approval step. The choice is open before then, and it is open to everyone. End the lease at any point and you can swap the piece for another one and start a new term, keep it by paying whatever is left of the twelve payments, or send it back at no cost with everything you have already paid credited back to you. Twelve months is the minimum term only in the sense that it is the length of the schedule. Nothing locks you in for it.

Question 5

Can I sell a card back to you that I did not buy here?

Accepted Answer

Yes — Sell to us is open to anyone, and the card does not have to have passed through us. Paste the certification number, send photographs, and you get two offers side by side: an outright purchase at 70% of the market comparable, paid within two days, or vault consignment, where we list it and take 6% if you hold Collect PRO or Lux Club and 8% if you do not, and you get the rest when it sells — typically about three weeks. A card you bought from us is a different rate: 85%, because we already know the certification and in most cases the slab never left our vault. The 15 points between the two are what it costs us to authenticate a card we have never seen. The two offers are shown together on purpose. Outright is less money sooner, consignment is more money later, and which one is right depends on facts about you that we do not have. The published buyback rates — 85% of the comparable on cards, 70% of what you paid on Lux — are a different thing, and they apply only to items bought here. A card we did not sell is bought at 70%, because we carry the authentication risk on it.

Question 6

Do you ship outside the United States?

Accepted Answer

Yes, worldwide, insured and with a signature required at the door wherever it lands. Prices and the buyback figures are in US dollars. What the checkout total does not include is import duty or VAT. Those are charged by the destination country to whoever receives the parcel, at that country’s rate, and no seller can pay them for you or estimate them honestly in advance. The declared value on the customs form is the price you paid — we do not under-declare, because an under-declared parcel is an uninsured parcel. A card that crosses a border and then crosses back pays duty twice. If you expect to resell rather than keep, that is worth knowing before you order.

Question 7

Is my gym equipment covered if a weld fails?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Steel frames carry a lifetime warranty, and a failed weld is the textbook case it exists for. We replace the piece, and you do not ship the broken one back — moving a cracked rack is more dangerous than storing one. Upholstery, pads and grips carry ten years. Those wear out rather than fail, and pretending otherwise would make the lifetime claim on steel worth less. Every batch is load-tested to 440 lb before it ships, which is why this is a rare conversation.

Question 8

Can I use a card I own as part payment for another one?

Accepted Answer

Yes, if it is graded. Enter the certification number and both numbers appear straight away, computed from the market comparable published today: 70% of it in cash, or 77% as credit toward another card. The credit number is larger because credit costs us less than money does. Send three photographs — front, back and the label — and a person confirms it. If you bought the card here, do not use this route — the Harmony Buyback pays 85% of the comparable on anything from your own order history, and it needs no photographs because we already hold the record. Accepting the offer charges you the difference between that credit and the price of the card you want. That charge is what reserves the card: it comes off the market, in your name, for 10 days. Then you ship yours with the prepaid insured label we send, we confirm the slab is genuine and matches its certification, the credit applies, and your new card ships within 48 hours. The offer only moves if the slab does not match its certification — which would mean it is not the card you described.

How can we help?

Orders & shipping

Authenticity & grading

Tokenization

Lease, trade-in & buyback

Asked most often

Orders & shipping

Authenticity & grading

Tokenization

Lease, trade-in & buyback

Orders & shipping

Authenticity & grading

Tokenization

Lease, trade-in & buyback

Asked most often

How do I verify a card is really graded?−

What exactly do I own when I tokenize a card?+

How is the market comparable calculated?+

What happens at month 12 of a lease?+

Can I sell a card back to you that I did not buy here?+

Do you ship outside the United States?+

Is my gym equipment covered if a weld fails?+

Can I use a card I own as part payment for another one?+

Orders & shipping

Authenticity & grading

Tokenization

Lease, trade-in & buyback